A friend's guide
BALI
9 days  ·  6 friends  ·  May 2023
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The honest version

So you're going to Bali.

Good. You're going to love it — but only if you go to the right places. I made this because the generic guides online all tell you the same things. Here's what I actually did, what I actually thought, and what I'd tell you over a cup of coffee.

Biggest piece of advice up front: don't just stay in the south. The tourists cluster in Kuta and Seminyak, and there's nothing wrong with that — we did too, for the first half. But the second half, when we moved to a tiny village called Kubutambahan in the north-east, was when the trip became truly unforgettable.

Where we stayed

Two Balis.

We split the trip in two — roughly 4–5 nights in Kuta in the south, then 3–4 nights in Kubutambahan in the north-east. Both were Airbnb villas. For a group of 6, a private villa is dramatically better value than a hotel.

First half · Kuta
South Bali
Jalan Raya Basangkasa, Kuta
Busy, convenient, a bit chaotic in the best way. Great for beach clubs, nightlife, restaurants, and as a launchpad for day trips. Don't expect quiet — it's not that kind of place.
ATV night ride on Mount Batur
"Riding quad bikes up a volcano at night, in the dark, in single file."
Mount Batur ATV
What we did

Ranked by how much I loved them.

Eleven experiences, honest opinions. Tap any one to read the full story.

★★★
Scuba Diving — USAT Liberty Wreck
A WW2 shipwreck 30m from shore. Do not skip this.
Diver inside the USAT Liberty wreck

A US Army cargo ship torpedoed in World War Two lies just 30 metres from the shore in Amed, covered in 80 years of coral and fish. No experience needed — this is Discover Scuba. You do a quick pool session, then you're on the wreck.

I went in with zero experience. I came out speechless. Schools of fish moving through rusted corridors. It felt like being inside a David Attenborough documentary you'd somehow stumbled into. If you do nothing else on this list, do this.

₹4,500–5,500 per person No experience needed Includes photos & video Book in advance
★★★
Mount Batur — ATV Night Ride
Up a volcano in the dark. Far better than the hike.
Mount Batur sunrise view

Most guides tell you to hike Batur before dawn. We did something better: quad bikes up the volcano at night. 10pm, pitch black except for headlights, riding in single file through volcanic jungle. Then you stop. You cut the engines. Total silence.

You look down and Lake Batur is a mirror below you, and the horizon is just starting to go orange. We combined this with the natural hot spring spa the same day — sitting in geothermal pools with that lake view afterwards was close to perfect.

Night ride ~10pm Combine with hot springs mountbatursunrisetrekking.com
★★★
Aling Aling Waterfall — Cliff Jumping
Slides, river, 5m jump — magical. The 15m? Leave it alone.

A beautiful waterfall in the North Bali hills with a series of natural pools, slides, and jump platforms. The wading, the slides, and the 5m jump are genuinely joyful — the kind of thing you're grinning through the whole time. Leave your phone behind (you have to anyway), and that ends up being part of what makes it special.

The 10m jump is a serious undertaking. The 15m is best left alone — it's not for the faint-hearted and nobody in their right mind would call it fun. The magic of this place is in the river and the 5m, not the heights. Don't let anyone pressure you up the bigger platforms.

₹800–1,000 INR North Bali · 2.5 hrs from Kuta Bring a dry bag
★★★
Kecak Fire Dance — Uluwatu Temple
Clifftop temple, fire performer, ocean behind the stage.
Kecak fire dance at Uluwatu

Uluwatu is a clifftop Hindu temple on the southern tip of Bali. Every evening at sunset, 50+ men in a circle chant rhythmically while the Ramayana unfolds. The finale: a fire performer walking through flames, the sea 70 metres below.

Even if you've seen fire dancers before, the setting makes this different. Warning: the monkeys will steal anything loose. Sunglasses, snacks, phones — everything goes in your bag.

~₹800 per person Arrive 30 mins early Sarong required (available there) Watch the monkeys
★★
Potato Head Beach Club — Seminyak
The iconic Bali afternoon. Book a day bed.
Potato Head Beach Club

Day beds facing the ocean, hundreds of old shutters and doors fused into curved walls, the whole thing designed around the sunset. Go around 4pm, get a day bed, order something cold, and let the afternoon happen.

Seminyak Book day beds in advance Arrive by 4pm for sunset
★★
Finns Beach Club — Canggu
More party, less aesthetics. Go for the dancing.

We went for a late-night event. Open-air dance floor, beach vibes, good music. If you want to dance outside with sea air, it's the spot. Very different energy from Potato Head — younger crowd, louder, more fun if you're in that mood.

Canggu Best for late nights
★★
Rock Bar — AYANA Resort, Jimbaran
Built into the cliffs above the sea. One evening, worth it.

A bar built into the cliffs above the Indian Ocean, accessed by funicular lift. We went for a sunset dinner — the sky was entirely overcast that evening. No sunset, just grey. And yet it was still a genuinely enjoyable evening. The location does all the heavy lifting. Budget ₹2,000–4,000 per person.

AYANA Resort, Jimbaran ₹2,000–4,000 per person Reserve a table
★★
Coffee Plantation Tour
Sounds touristy. Turns out genuinely interesting.

You walk through the plantation, learn how Luwak coffee is made (the famous civet-processed beans), and sit down to a free tasting of 8–10 varieties — ginger, vanilla, lemongrass, ginseng, the lot. Combine with other North/Central Bali sights. Works perfectly as a half-day add-on.

Free tasting Best combined with Batur day trip
Nusa Penida Day Tour
A photo op, not really an experience. Measured take.

The T-Rex cliff at Kelingking is as dramatic in person as it looks online. But compared to everything else on this list, Nusa Penida felt like a checkbox. The beaches are hard to actually reach. The island is packed with tour groups doing the same circuit.

My honest take: if you have 10+ days, go. If you're choosing between Nusa Penida and spending a day more in Kubutambahan, choose the latter.

~₹2,500–4,000 per head Kelingking · Broken Beach · Crystal Bay
Milky Way over Kubutambahan Milky Way with palm trees
Kubutambahan · North-East Bali · 11pm
"Just six of us, lying on the grass, staring upwards like idiots."
Zero light pollution. The Milky Way sitting right there above us, framed by palm leaves. We took long-exposure photos for two hours. It cost nothing. It was the best moment of the trip — and nobody plans for it. You just look up.
What to eat

The essentials.

Indonesian food is underrated. The combination of rice, noodles, sambal, peanut sauce, and fresh fish works in almost every combination. As an Indian traveller you'll find the spice familiar but different enough to be exciting.

Nasi Goreng with satay Russian pastry Beach club vibes

Nasi Goreng — Indonesian fried rice with a fried egg, satay skewers, prawn crackers and sambal. I ate this at least four times. Never tired of it.

Local warungs — A full meal with drinks costs under ₹400. Don't just eat at tourist restaurants. The best food is in the small family places.

The Russian Bakery near Kuta — I stumbled into this and it was genuinely unexpected. Crispy pastry rolls with almond filling, Russian-style desserts. Things I'd never tried before. Worth finding.

Naty's Restaurant, Seminyak — Reliable mid-range spot we returned to. Good variety, not overpriced for the area.

Kecak fire dance Uluwatu
"The sea, 70 metres below. Fire. 50 men chanting."
Uluwatu Temple · Kecak Fire Dance
The honest bits

Things I'd tell you over coffee.

The stuff that doesn't make it into travel articles.

Do this
The Liberty wreck dive — worth more than any beach day. Book it.
Go north. Kubutambahan is where the real Bali is.
ATVs over the hike — everyone hikes Batur. Nobody does the ATVs at night.
Do Aling Aling. The river, the slides, the 5m jump. Leave your phone, leave your ego at the 15m platform.
Look up on a clear night in Kubutambahan.
Nusa Penida — a box to tick, not an experience to have. Skip if time is tight.
Staying only in Kuta — you'll leave having missed the best bits.
Cramming too much — Bali distances look short on a map and feel long on the road.
Filling every hour. The best moments came from the unplanned ones.
The practicalities

Nuts & bolts.

This stuff changes — verify before you go. But here's what worked for us in May 2023.

Cost~₹2,000 INR / ~1.4 Lakh IDR. Card accepted.
ProcessPay → stamp → e-customs QR scan. Smooth, under 30 mins.
DocumentsReturn ticket + hotel booking on phone is fine. No printing needed.
CurrencyIndonesian Rupiah (IDR). ₹1 ≈ ~180 IDR.
CardsICICI Forex card worked well. Most tourist spots accept cards. Some charge 3% extra.
CashCarry some IDR for scooters, warungs, tips. ATMs everywhere.
Mindset1 Million IDR ≈ ₹5,500. Easy to lose track of zeros.
ScootersBest way to explore. ~₹350–450/day. Google Maps works perfectly for navigation.
Grab/GoJekFor airport and when you don't want to ride. Reliable, metered.
Private driverFor day trips to Batur, Aling Aling etc. Agree price upfront. ~₹3,000–5,000/day.
SIM cardBuy at the airport immediately. First thing you do after customs.
DrugsIndonesia has extremely harsh drug laws. Do not go anywhere near this.
WaterDon't drink tap water. Bottled only.
TaxisDon't take unlicensed taxis at the airport. Use Grab.
SunscreenKeep under 100ml in cabin bag or pack in checked luggage.
MonkeysAt Uluwatu — secure everything. Seriously.